Chemical treatment and start –up procedure for Fibreglass
- Fill the pool after 48 Hours and not longer than 72 Hours to prevent too much dirt accumulating.
- If it should rain while the pool is “curing” check for black stripes of pollution (exhaust emission washed out the atmosphere). These need to be wiped clean with “Handy Andy” or a similar product before adding water. Beware of slipping on the soapy water.
- Add Chlorine at one cup per 25% of level of water whilst filling. Usually 4 cups by the time pool is full (50 000 L). Add only two cups on small pools. Basically throw enough to maintain crystal clear water on fill up. This could vary in winter…Use your discretion…..as long as the water looks blue or clear.
- Do not walk around inside pool whilst empty, as dirt will be tracked into the resin surface (and to prevent injury as it is slippery when new)
- Use only HCL (Hydro Chloric) pool acid to adjust Ph level. Usually one to two cups if required as per the test kit.
- Use only chlorine that is non-Stabilized. Stabilized chlorine is acidic and causes problems with the chemical balance and causes harmful extra high chlorine levels in the smaller pools. They also tend to cause burning eyes and dry skin on children. If stabilized floaters are used then it is essential to adjust your Alkalinity weekly to prevent staining and burning eyes and skin. Stay off them in winter to prevent stabilizer build up known as chlorine lock.
- Try and purchase the HTH Quick test with the “Dip Strip” as they check alkalinity, PH, stabilizer and chlorine in three seconds! This type of litmus paper kit is slightly less accurate yet is easy to use as they tell you what product to buy or add when it is a certain colour.
- Add alkalinity increase instead of soda ash when too acidic. Soda ash causes staining.
- If brown stains or streaks develop on the surface after a few months (caused by too much chlorine usually over winter and especially with salt systems or floaters) throw in 5 liters of hydrogen peroxide per 40kl of water to remove scale. “Stain go” or metal remover can also be used.
- Never use a wire brush / only use a soft nylon brush as the surface will scratch.
- Wipe the tissue mosaic with “Handy Andy” or similar to remove any pollution marks.
- Stabilizing with Cyanuric acid is optional. It stops UV Rays from destroying chlorine. Too much (100ppm) is harmful. Follow package instructions. Ideal is 40ppm to 60ppm. Special kits are available on request.
- Recommended types of chlorine: HTH powder, HTH Pod, Kleen Klor Floater, Econo pack pills, or a salt chlorinator are best. They must be Cyanuric free to prevent stabilizer build up. Rather manually dose your stabilizer every six months to maintain 40 to 60 ppm.
Ricky on 074 234 4224 has a brilliant 60-day water treatment service that is very affordable.